Shiseido succeeds in developing a new emulsification method that expands the possibilities of product development

 Shiseido has succeeded in developing an epoch-making emulsification technology that achieves both high emulsification stability and usability / effect at a high level. Furthermore, through joint research with Tokyo University of Science, we succeeded in photographing the emulsified interface for the first time in the world using this technology, and elucidated the emulsification mechanism.

In the new emulsification method developed this time, the emulsifier exists in a flat "nanodisc" structure at the interface (border between oil and water) to form extremely stable emulsified particles. In addition, when the nanodisc structure is applied to the skin, it changes to a uniform coating film, realizing a comfortable feeling of use without stickiness and high functionality.

Shiseido has taken on the challenge of developing a new emulsification technology that can enhance functionality while pursuing a good feel and high quality, based on the approach of "Functionality / Japan Quality" of the original R & D philosophy "DYNAMIC HARMONY". Part of the research was presented at the World Congress of Cosmetic Engineers "International Federation of Cosmetic Engineers Cancun Interim Conference 2021" (IFSCC Conference 2021). The technology will also be applied to "HAKU Medicinal Day-China Whitening Essence" released on January 21st and "MaQuillage Dramatic Essence Liquid" released on February 21st. We will continue to apply it to the development of various products regardless of beauty as one of the core emulsification technologies.

All cosmetics such as skin care cosmetics, foundations, sunscreens, etc. are required to have high functionality and effectiveness, as well as comfort, ease of application, high stability and safety.

Emulsification technology mixes and stabilizes water and oil, which are important ingredients to satisfy these factors, and there are many options depending on the ingredients such as the chemicals to be blended, the skin type / age, and the required feeling of use. Over the years, the company has developed a variety of emulsification technologies to provide.

For example, when a surfactant, which is a typical emulsifier, is used alone, the stability generally increases depending on the concentration, but the feeling of use tends to be impaired. In addition, there are various restrictions in advancing the development of cosmetics that have both comfort and functionality, such as the fact that some oils cannot be emulsified depending on the nature of the oil. In order to solve these problems, we proceeded with research with the aim of developing a new emulsification method.

The emulsification technology developed this time utilizes a surfactant that forms a spherical structure called "vesicles" only in a specific environment. By mixing oil with an aqueous solution containing vesicles, the vesicles change into a disk-shaped structure called "nanodiscs", which are uniformly and firmly adsorbed on the interface. This made it possible to produce an extremely stable emulsion even with a small amount of surfactant. Furthermore, through joint research with Tokyo University of Science, we succeeded in photographing for the first time in the world how vesicles are structurally transferred to nanodiscs and adsorbed on the interface of oil and water with an electron microscope.

Moreover, when an emulsion having a nanodisc structure is applied to the skin, it changes into a soft and uniform coating film. The slimy oil is sandwiched between the coating films, and the moisturizer that causes stickiness penetrates into the stratum corneum, so it is possible to achieve smooth, less sticky, and preferred usability.

The benefits of the new emulsification method are said to be "the spread of compoundable ingredients due to high emulsification stability" and "overwhelming usability and effectiveness".

With the new emulsification technology, the surfactant that forms the nanodisc structure does not dissolve in oil and is adsorbed on the surface to form stable emulsified particles. As a result, it becomes possible to mix about 3 times the amount of polar oil, which was limited by the conventional emulsification technology, and as a result, more functional ingredients can be stably mixed in the formulation. became.