FANCL develops technology to enhance the effect of skin care cosmetics

 FANCL is proceeding with various joint developments with the capital and business alliance with Kirin Holdings, and this time, in collaboration with Kirin's group company Kyowa Pharma Chemical, nanocapsules with excellent skin penetration are used as preservatives. Succeeded in developing for free.

FANCL has been researching nanocapsules that deliver beauty ingredients to the skin with the aim of enhancing the effectiveness of skin care products. There was a technical problem in improving the sex.

Kyowa Pharma Chemical and FANCL collaborated to find a technology to solve this problem and jointly filed a patent application.

Nanocapsules to be incorporated into general skin care products are produced by dispersing hydrogenated lecithin in water and refining it to nano size.

Furthermore, by adding a beauty ingredient, nanocapsules in which the beauty ingredient is retained can be produced. Since nanocapsules are fine, they have excellent penetration into the skin and play a role in delivering the beauty ingredients retained inside to the skin.

In other words, the penetration of nanocapsules into the skin is considered to be directly linked to the functionality of skin care products.

Therefore, FANCL first added two types of highly visible nanocapsules to the three-dimensional skin model as an evaluation of the skin permeability of the nanocapsules, and after 30 minutes, compared and observed the cross section of the skin model with a microscope.

As a result, when a hard nanocapsule was used, a weak green color was observed near the epidermis, but when a soft nanocapsule was used, a strong green color was confirmed not only in the epidermis but also in the dermis.

In other words, this indicates that soft nanocapsules have better penetration into the skin than hard nanocapsules, and it is expected that the use of soft nanocapsules can deliver the beauty ingredients retained inside deeper into the skin. Will be done.

Generally, the raw material of nanocapsules contains a preservative for the purpose of preventing bacterial contamination, but using such a raw material may cause irritation to the skin by the preservative.

When enhancing antibacterial properties without adding preservatives, moisturizers with antibacterial activity are added, but these moisturizers interact with nanocapsules and cause the stability to be impaired.

In particular, soft nanocapsules are prone to destabilization, and there are technical hurdles to making them preservative-free. Therefore, based on the hypothesis that a specific cosmetological ingredient stabilizes nanocapsules, we tried to stabilize soft nanocapsules.

Nanocapsules containing ectoine, a beauty ingredient selected by FANCL, and collagen tripeptide F were produced by Kyowa Pharma Chemical after technical studies, and the size change of the nanocapsules, which is an index of stabilization, was measured. Observed.

As a result, it was confirmed that the nanocapsules containing no cosmetological ingredients decreased in size and became unstable after 3 months. It is presumed that this is because the moisturizer blended to enhance the antibacterial property interacts with the soft nanocapsules and distorts the film structure.

In addition, the same result was obtained for nanocapsules containing only ectoine, and it was found that ectoine itself does not have a function of stabilizing nanocapsules.

On the other hand, in the nanocapsules containing collagen tripeptide F in addition to ectoine, the size did not change even after 3 months.

This result shows that nanocapsules are specifically stabilized by blending ectoine and collagen tripeptide F as beauty ingredients.

In other words, this preservative-free and soft nanocapsule is expected not only to contain unnecessary preservatives on the skin, but also to deliver beauty ingredients deep into the skin.

This verification revealed that ectoine and collagen tripeptide F stabilize nanocapsules, but the detailed mechanism of stabilization is still unclear, so the properties of these beauty ingredients will be in the future. However, by clarifying how it contributes to the stabilization of nanocapsules, we will promote further functionalization of nanocapsules.